DIY reed valves

[Mike M]

Has anybody tried making their own reed valves out of drafting mylar or
some other easily obtainable material? I'm practicing reed
waxing/tuning/repair on an old beater accordion. I'd prefer not to drop
$50-70 on reed leathers for a practice instrument.

[Tom S]

Post by Mike M
Has anybody tried making their own reed valves out of drafting mylar or
some other easily obtainable material? I'm practicing reed
waxing/tuning/repair on an old beater accordion. I'd prefer not to drop
$50-70 on reed leathers for a practice instrument.

Yes, have made valves from sheets of .005 " MYLAR. Glued on with
cyano acrylates, ( Super glue )

Result are OK, but shape is critical to function. Example, notch each
side
slightly at pivot point.

Would to find some sort of artificial leather (vinyl) to cushion the
Mylar and give a better air seal

Toms

[Mike M]

Post by Tom S
Yes, have made valves from sheets of .005 " MYLAR. Glued on with
cyano acrylates, ( Super glue )
Result are OK, but shape is critical to function. Example, notch each
side
slightly at pivot point.

Any good way to test? I imagine that the best way is to put it in the
reed block on the tuning bellows and watch the valve operate. What do I
look for?

[ike milligan]

Post by Mike M

Post by Tom S
Yes, have made valves from sheets of .005 " MYLAR. Glued on with
cyano acrylates, ( Super glue )
Result are OK, but shape is critical to function. Example, notch each
side
slightly at pivot point.

Any good way to test? I imagine that the best way is to put it in the
reed block on the tuning bellows and watch the valve operate. What do I
look for?

What is your time worth? I buy the proper materials and don't have problems.
You want to screw up your reeds with super glue, fine. You're the owner.

[Tom S]

Post by ike milligan

Post by Mike M

Post by Tom S
Yes, have made valves from sheets of .005 " MYLAR. Glued on with
cyano acrylates, ( Super glue )
Result are OK, but shape is critical to function. Example, notch each
side
slightly at pivot point.

Any good way to test? I imagine that the best way is to put it in the
reed block on the tuning bellows and watch the valve operate. What do I
look for?

What is your time worth? I buy the proper materials and don't have problems.
You want to screw up your reeds with super glue, fine. You're the owner.

To Mike: Watching the valves on the tuning bellows will work.
You'll see how they open and close. Check out Ventile,
a type of vinyl and mylar valve a lot of new makers use
instead of leather. I think functionally, the ventile
work
better than leather. Also they have less tendency to
lose shape.

To Ike: I have done two reed blocks with this concept. Using
super glue didn't affect the reeds any more than shellac.
Would you know what the makers use to attach ventile ?

[ike milligan]

Post by Tom S

Post by ike milligan

Post by Mike M

Post by Tom S
Yes, have made valves from sheets of .005 " MYLAR. Glued on with
cyano acrylates, ( Super glue )
Result are OK, but shape is critical to function. Example, notch each
side
slightly at pivot point.

Any good way to test? I imagine that the best way is to put it in the
reed block on the tuning bellows and watch the valve operate. What do I
look for?

What is your time worth? I buy the proper materials and don't have problems.
You want to screw up your reeds with super glue, fine. You're the owner.

To Mike: Watching the valves on the tuning bellows will work.
You'll see how they open and close. Check out Ventile,
a type of vinyl and mylar valve a lot of new makers use
instead of leather. I think functionally, the ventile
work
better than leather. Also they have less tendency to
lose shape.
To Ike: I have done two reed blocks with this concept. Using
super glue didn't affect the reeds any more than shellac.
Would you know what the makers use to attach ventile ?

What you did is fine for you. I wouldn't do it. I don't know what the makers
use. I use a very tough clear rubber glue. Ventile or ventilli is a name for
plastic reed valves. The ones I use are make from vinyl. You have to be
carefull to clean the wax residue from the plate or they will stick with
just a little smear almost invisible.

[Tom S]

Post by ike milligan

Post by Tom S

Post by ike milligan

Post by Mike M

Post by Tom S
Yes, have made valves from sheets of .005 " MYLAR. Glued on with
cyano acrylates, ( Super glue )
Result are OK, but shape is critical to function. Example, notch each
side
slightly at pivot point.

Any good way to test? I imagine that the best way is to put it in the
reed block on the tuning bellows and watch the valve operate. What do I
look for?

What is your time worth? I buy the proper materials and don't have problems.
You want to screw up your reeds with super glue, fine. You're the owner.

To Mike: Watching the valves on the tuning bellows will work.
You'll see how they open and close. Check out Ventile,
a type of vinyl and mylar valve a lot of new makers use
instead of leather. I think functionally, the ventile
work
better than leather. Also they have less tendency to
lose shape.
To Ike: I have done two reed blocks with this concept. Using
super glue didn't affect the reeds any more than shellac.
Would you know what the makers use to attach ventile ?

What you did is fine for you. I wouldn't do it. I don't know what the makers
use. I use a very tough clear rubber glue. Ventile or ventilli is a name for
plastic reed valves. The ones I use are make from vinyl. You have to be
carefull to clean the wax residue from the plate or they will stick with
just a little smear almost invisible.

To Ike: Thanks for the info. I think I'll use rubber cement the next
time.
Also, I had good luck cleaning the wax off with naptha, it
evaporates
quickly and it's cheap by the gallon.